The thick fragrance of joss-sticks is always hanging in the air in Doc La village, Hung Yen province.

With millions of people burning bunches of incense sticks in pagodas, temples, communal houses, or at family altars every single day, sometimes you wonder where on earth is producing enough of these sticks to keep all the ancestors, national heroes and deities happy.

One village which specialises in producing incense sticks is Doc La in Hung Yen province, just 1.5km from the ancient town of Pho Hien. One month before Tet, the whole village is involved in the process. Old women and young children are all chipping in. On the main roads, down the narrow alleys, in he gardens and unplanted fields, all over town, there are bundles bright yellow and vivid red sticks everywhere.

The local legend is that a well-mannered, hard working young woman called Mai from the village married a Chinese man. She left for her husband’s homeland and on her return she was sadden to see how her village and fallen on hard times. She had learned how to make incense in her husband’s homeland, so she decided to teach the villagers the craft so they could make a living.

Today, the production of incense sticks is a traditional and hereditary craft. Everyone has a different role in the process. Men grind or kneading the herbal powder up into a smooth doughy texture. More elderly villagers or children roll or wrap the joss-sticks up while women generally drying the incense.

“Joss stick-making in Doc La has existed for hundreds of years and is handed down from generation to generation,” says Nguyen Duc Thanh, owner of Duc Thanh incense workshop. “We have our own secret ingredients to make the scent last longer. After a batch is produced, the craftsman will burn the joss stick to check its quality and see if it burns evenly and to the end.”

Doc La village specialises in making long, thin joss-sticks, and a limited number of incense coils. Each joss-stick is about 30-40cm long and 2-3mm in diameter. Its core is dyed red and made of dried bamboo which burns easily. Two thirds of the stick is covered with incense powder. The joss-sticks; burn time should be 20 to 30 minutes. The incense coil is made with the same ingredients but with additional glue which keeps the shape without the need for a bamboo core. An incense coil can burn for an entire day or more.

“The sun dries the incense in 1-2 days though it takes longer on cloudy days,” says Thanh’s wife. “We keep an eye on the weather forecast to avoid rainy days. In other towns they dry the incense over a fire but this reduces the potency of the scent as well as colour and quality.” Phan Thu Huong, 43-year old, the owner of Dinh Ba Noc Incense Workshop comes from a long line of joss-stick producers and believes this to be a noble trade.

“My grandfather, my father and all the senior craftsmen always taught us to be honest and clear of conscience when working as this craft is so closely connected to the spiritual life and worshipping practices of others,” she says.

Huong clearly takes real pride in her product. This is perhaps why for hundreds of years, Doc La village has become rich off the production of joss-sticks. Diligence, patience and care are required. The process might seem an easy or even leisurely one.

“This really is not an easy job,” says Thanh as she lights an incense coil to test the quality. The thick, musty scent of incense wafts across the room. Thanh nods in approval. So too the Gods.

Getting there: Follow National Road No.5 from Hanoi for 30km to Pho Noi town and then turn right onto Road No. 38 for another 40km to Hung Yen city centre. Doc La is 1.5km past Hung Yen.

VietNamNet/Time-out