Delicious rather than revolutionary best describes this Vietnamese cocktail.

It’s still common to see a woman put down her shoulder pole and baskets and serve up glasses and bowls of che, though not as much as when the streets were narrower and packed with people rather than motor vehicles.

Other countries with culinary similarities have had a big influence on che.

For instance, the Chinese che served in the restaurants and cafes of Ho Chi Minh City’s District 5 is laced with supposedly therapeutic herbs and spices.

Thai che is fruitier, as are the Vietnamese versions, though the latter are really characterized by the beans, peas and coconut milk of the standard recipe.

Within the country, the style varies from region to region.

Hanoi che is elegant and simple, Hue city che is noted for its sweetness, and Saigon che varies according to which fruits are in season.

It’s the pomelo fruit, jasmine and banana oil that give northern che its distinctive taste, and scraped coconut flesh and molasses that sweeten the cocktail without going too far.

Northern che is simple to cook. The base, which can be embellished as you will, is made by stewing a handful of green or black beans for half an hour, sprinkling sugar into the pot according to taste, and adding banana oil.

In the less tropical climate of northern Vietnam, a chilled glass of che makes for a refreshing treat on a muggy summer’s day, just as a piping-hot bowlful is ideal for warming the insides on a frosty winter’s morning.

In Hue in the central region, the local che was a favorite with the feudal kings of old, and the nervous cooks in the royal kitchen were very careful to make it just right lest they incur displeasure from up high.

The modern cook can copy the court chef by shelling some lotus seeds, simmering them with added sugar for a while, putting the seeds into peeled longans to replace the stones that have been removed, and serving the longans with the heart transplant in a bowl of hot sugary syrup.

There are many types of yummy Hue che, one of which is che troi nuoc and is made by wrapping green beans and sugar in sticky rice paste and coating it with sesame seeds, then scalding the lot with boiling water.

Other variations use a liquid made by pouring boiling water over scrapings of coconut flesh, squeezing out the juice, then boiling the juice to prevent an upset tummy.

These include che bap with baby corn, tapioca, dried coconut, wheat flour and sugar; che dau van with broad beans, sugar and flour; che dau do with red beans and sugar; che dau xanh danh with ground green beans and sugar; and che khoai mon with taro and sticky rice.

Down south the che is fattier, relies more on fruit and usually includes lots of small boba balls made by mixing tapioca and carrageenan powder.

Some che recipes are suitable for all climates, notably che ba ba with manioc, sweet potato, green beans, sugar and coconut flesh; che buoi with pomelo skin, sugar, roasted peanuts, dried coconut, and fragrant pomelo; che chuoi with banana, white sugar, banana oil, coconut flesh juice, fresh milk and salt; and the many versions that incorporate common beans.

There are also two che cakes that are commonly laid out as offerings to one’s ancestors at the lunar new year: che kho made with green lentils, white sugar and sesame; and the bitter che lam containing of sticky rice, molasses and ginger.

Plenty of restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City have che on their menus. Here are a few:

Ky Dong: 153/7 Ky Dong Street, Ward 9, District 3

Nam Bo: 16/1A Dinh Tien Hoang Street, Da Kao Ward, District 1

Hoai Pho: 285/94A Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ward 12, District 10 .

Cung Dinh Hue: 729 Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ward 6, Tan Binh District

Reported by Nguyen Ly