Hoan Kiem Lake, which is the heart and soul of Hanoi, means “Lake of the Returned Sword”, in reference to the legend surrounding fifteenth century Vietnamese hero General Le Loi

Hanoi’s 20 lakes are renowned for bringing the city a sense of beauty and an old-world atmosphere.

As the capital continues to develop, with mega-shopping complexes and fast cooking chains popping up left and right, Hanoi’s lakes have retained their peace and quiet. Even those in the center of town are surrounded by old trees, parks, zoos or centuries’ old villages. Both lively and charming, the lakes give Hanoi its style and ensure that the bustling city with a quickly expanding population never seems too crowded.

Some say Hanoians owe their lifestyles, which exemplify an appreciation of history and culture, to the old capital’s lakes.

Jewel of the capital

“Proximity to water in a city is always a very nice thing to have,” said David Milliot, a former advisor from the European Union. “Lakes have a relaxing effect as they make city life less stressful. I like Hoan Kiem Lake because despite its central location, it is a spot of ancient, interesting history.”

Like most of the lakes in Hanoi, Hoan Kiem – lined with beautiful weeping willows in the center of town – has an alluring and mysterious legend that tells the history of its name.

Hoan Kiem Lake means “Lake of the Returned Sword”, in reference to the legend surrounding fifteenth century Vietnamese hero General Le Loi. After ten years of hard fighting (1418-1428), the Lam Son insurrectionists led by Le Loi swept the Chinese invaders out of the country, ending the Ming Dynasty’s 20 years of domination over Vietnam. Le Loi became a national hero, proclaiming himself King Le Thai To and establishing the Vietnamese capital in Thang Long, present-day Hanoi.

On a beautiful afternoon following the victory, the king and his entourage took out a dragon-shaped boat to enjoy the peace while cruising Luc Thuy (Green Water) Lake, which was located in the center of Thang Long. As the boat glided across the smooth surface of the lake, legend has it that a Golden Tortoise suddenly appeared, telling the king: “Your Majesty, the great work is completed. Would you please return the sacred sword to the King of the Sea?”

The precious sword Le Loi used to fight the Chinese had been lent to him by the King of the Sea, according to the story. At the time the Tortoise spoke, the sword hung at the king’s waist. It then moved out of its sheath and flew toward the giant reptile. The tortoise took the sword in his mouth and dove under the water as a bright flash of lightning lit up the sky. Since then, Luc Thuy Lake has been called Lake of the Returned Sword or Sword Lake (Ho Guom) for short.

Hence, on a tiny island in the middle of the lake stands Thap Rua (Tortoise Tower), a centuries-old three-tiered pavilion in memory of the legendary tortoise. On another islet to the north, inside the fourteenth century Ngoc Son Temple, a giant preserved turtle encased in glass keeps the legend alive. Rua Tower and Ngoc Son Temple are some of Hanoi’s most-beautiful landmarks.

“In the morning, it’s great to take a walk on the nice, shaded sidewalks around Hoan Kiem Lake,” said Milliot. “It is so relaxing to feel the breeze coming from the center of the lake.”

Local legend still has it that if you’re lucky, you’ll see the grand old tortoise raise its head above water for a brief moment.

Local boon

Truc Bach Lake, a lake separated from West Lake (Hanoi’s largest watery body at 5.5 square kilometers) by the sliver of land that is Thanh Nien Road, has greatly influenced the life of local people. Truc Bach was part of West Lake until the 17th century when the inhabitants of the surrounding villages built a dyke cordoning off West Lake’s southeast corner in order to raise fish. During the reign of Lord Trinh Giang (1711-1762), Truc Lam Palace was built for worship and later was converted into a prison for prostitutes. These poor women were forced to weave silk, and despite their desperate situation, they took the work seriously. Their silk was so nice that it became famous throughout the capital as Truc (small bamboo) village silk.

On a walk around the lake, one can see many relics and sites of interest: Nghi Tam Village (birthplace of the famous poet Ba Huyen Thanh Quan), Kim Lien Pagoda with its unique architecture and Nhat Tan Village with its famous peach garden.

Daily life

Every day, thousands of Hanoians do their morning exercises, practice Tai Chi, play chess and perform break-dancing around the lakes. And if you are looking for a romantic date with someone special, a table at Highlands Coffee above West Lake is the perfect place to watch a magnificent sunset.

Strolling around any lake in the city gives a clear and vivid picture of daily life and it’s hard not to be affected by the ambience of the capital and the traits its people are known for: hard work, friendliness and a zest for life.

Be it a lone after-work cup of coffee, or a lazy Sunday meeting with friends, at Hanoi’s lakes and waterside cafes, watching the world simply pass by can be a mesmerizing experience.

Reported by Thy Nga